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AROUND NAPOLI
Roman amphitheater in Naples
by Jeff Matthews
More news from Napoli Underground (NUG). Those Noble Noctivagators of the Neapolitan Netherworld, known by their NUG- handles as Fulvio and Ipogeo have done it again! The following text is from the English-language version of the NUG webpage and was kindly sent to me by the translator, Larry Ray, longtime Neapophile:

"The conference room at Naples' famed National Archeological Museum was packed, with standing room only spilling out into the hallway as a conference got underway, reviewing work in progress on a major archaeological project beneath the ancient original Greco-Roman streets in the city's historic center. Archeologists and scientists have been working on an ongoing project to restore a huge Roman Colosseum or Amphitheater buried some 10 to 12 meters beneath today's bustling narrow alleyways and piazzas of the old city. Napoliunderground was represented by Fulvio and Ipogeo, who were were special guests, having been asked to prepare a photographic overview, as well as a Ipogeo's video tour of the area where the tedious work in the huge underground area is taking place. The conference was organized by architect Giancarlo Ferulano, of the City's metropolitan historic valuation department to present new discoveries from this major find which dates from the I and II centuries A.D."

Larry continues: "...the buildings above the old ruins follow its shape..[that is, a satellite photo shows a "wheel" shape seemingly cut into the mass of buildings in that area]...several pieces of original frescoes seem to be in remarkably good shape. It is easy to see the incorporation of earlier Greek foundations, which are fitted, flat stacked stones with no mortar, then the characteristic diamond- shaped small block brick, mortar-joined masonry of the Romans."

The surface “wheel” that defines the contour of the ancient amphitheater now hidden beneath modern buildings is west of the cathedral and is accessible by walking into the historic center on via dei Tribunali from via Duomo and turning north (right) after you pass the church of San Paolo Maggiore. As of this writing (April 2008), the only large-scale Roman sites excavated in Naples and open to the public are beneath the church of San Lorenzo and the nearby Roman aqueduct. The San Lorenzo site was relatively easy to do since they excavated down through a church courtyard. There was no displacement of people from their dwellings to open the earth. This amphitheater, however, presents a problem of a different order, as would most of the historic center of Naples if you decided to excavate significant sections of the ancient Roman city. I have just been down there snooping around and it is impossible to see from ground level just how many flats are contained in the buildings within the “wheel” or how many people actually live above the amphitheater. I noticed a strange sign that says that the building (one of many within the "wheel" is the "property of the City of Naples...[and]...not intended for habitation." There certainly seem to me to be a lot of people living there right now. I don't expect this to be open any time soon to the public, but the photos provided by Napoli Underground are tantalizing.

photo: Ongoing excavation of the ancient amphitheater. (Photo courtesy of Napoli Underground)
7/4/2008