The Sheik
of Castellaneta
By Jeanne
Manfredi
Most of us have never seen a Rudolph Valentino film,
yet we all know his name and many of us recognize movie stills of that
romantic figure dressed in the robes of a desert sheik with a melting
damsel in his power, and in his arms. To our mothers, or more likely,
our grandmothers, in the jazzy slang of the 1920's , he was really "the
cat's pajamas"!
The world's
most famous Latin lover started out life very short on worldly goods
but very long on names. Rodolfo Alfonso Raffaele Pierre Filibert Guglielmi
di Valentino d'Antonguolla was born in 1889 in the poor, little hill
village of Castellaneta in Puglia —around the arch of Italy's
boot. Perhaps it was his French mother, stuck in that isolated, forlorn
corner of Southern Italy so far from the gay lights of Paris, who wove
stories for her favorite child, Rudy, of the wonders and glamour of
the wide world beyond the narrow cobbled streets of their poverty-stricken
village. She certainly must have wanted to escape, for soon after her
husband died, she took her 3 children to live in the nearby city of
Taranto. After Rudy had finished his schooling, graduating as an agricultural
expert or agronomist, he was finally ready to strike out on his own,
to make his way to the promised land —America!
This was
the era of mass migration for poor Italians of the South. Often, small
towns became villages of woman and children when over 75% of the men
emigrated to the Americas to find work and a new life. Some managed
to earn enough to send for their families and a few returned to their
homeland with the money they had been able to save. Those were known
as the "Americani".
None was
able to come back so famous and so rich as "The God of Love", Rudolph
Valentino. But, in 1913, when young Rudy landed in New York, he had
a hard time just surviving. He had hopes of making enough to get him
to California for he had ambitions of becoming, not a movie star, but
a citrus grower. First, he worked as a gardener, then as a dish washer,
and in his spare time he learned the tango. Soon his dancing feet got
him out of the kitchen and into the elegant supper club, Maxim's, where
he earned his dinners by dancing with the rich and generous women customers.
Meanwhile, he entered dance tournaments and, best of all, began to get
bit parts in a few films.
In 1921,
the big break came! Hollywood needed a hero for their major epic, "The
Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse" - -who could dance the tango. That
film made the tango the most popular dance in America and it made Rodolfo
Guglielmi from Castellaneta into Rudolph Valentino, the hottest star
in Hollywood. Overnight, Valentino was the passionate Latin Lover personified,
and women from coast to coast swooned at every torrid love scene.
Off screen,
Valentino played the part of a famous star to the hilt, with his cream-colored
Hispano-Suiza and his robin's egg blue Bugatti (the Jaguar and Maserati
of the day), and with parties in his Hollywood Hills mansions, "Falcon's
Nest" or the Mediterranean-style villa with the big swimming pool lined
with imported Italian tiles in the silent screen stars' enclave of Whitley
Heights.
The great
lover was twice married and many of the famous silent screen female
stars were rumored to be pining and/or repining for the love of
the Sheik. Despite all that adulation, Rudy never seemed to find lasting
happiness with any woman. Charlie Chaplin wrote, "No man had greater
attraction for women than Valentino. No man was more deceived by them."
Then, in
1926, the brightest star in Hollywood suddenly dimmed forever. Still
in his thirties, Valentino died from peritonitis during a whirlwind
tour to promote his latest movie. Tens of thousands of grieving
fans attended his funeral in New York, women fainted, and tried to throw
themselves on his coffin. When Pola Negri, the torrid siren of
the silver screen, learned of his death, she draped herself in black
widow's weeds from head to toe, even though she was never one of his
wives. Soon after, around Rudolph Valentino's burial place, a
Hollywood legend was born. Every year on the anniversary of his
death, a mystery woman, heavily veiled in black, appeared at the Hollywood
Cemetery with flowers for his crypt. For the over 40 years, no
one ever discovered the identity of the "Woman in Black". Was she a
famous actress in disguise? A former lover? Certainly, her devotion
and constancy helped keep alive the "romance", the "mystique" of Valentino.
As the years passed, people still gathered each August 23rd to see if
the unknown "Woman in Black" would once again appear at the last resting
place of her beloved Sheik.
In Castellaneta,
too, they never forgot their most illustrious native son. At the height
of his brief five years of fame and fortune, he returned to his
birthplace. The English travel writer, H. V. Morton, in his wonderful
book, A Traveller in Southern Italy, who visited Castellaneta
in the late 1960s, writes that he met a couple of old-timers who
remembered over 40 years before when Valentino had arrived in
town in a large motor car. But, they reported, he didn't stay
long before driving on to Taranto for lunch. One can't help
wondering what memories were evoked as Valentino made what must have
been a triumphal return. Did he think of that poor 12-year-old boy,
who with his widowed mother and his little brother and sister had walked
down off that same hill that he was now gliding up in an elegant
automobile? Did he recall lines from his favorite poet, Walt Whitman,
that expressed his emotions at that moment? Or did he feel that it was
all part of his pre-ordained Destiny? --for he was a true believer
in Spiritualism. Or, perhaps he was just thankful he hadn't missed that
boat for America back in 1913.
Now, as
you wind up the road into Castellaneta, at one end of a belvedere overlooking
the valley below, you come upon a larger then life-size, ceramic statue
of a desert sheik dressed in a bright-purplish blue robe with
a white headdress. To complete the ensemble, there is a vertical
stone slab standing beside it with a ceramic tablet attached which has
incised into it an outline of film impedimenta, such as movie camera
and a movie reel, all brightly colored in reds, yellows, oranges and
blues.
Hometown
Valentino fans had to wait until 1961 before this memorial was finally
erected —and this one isn't at all like the beautiful bronze bust
of Valentino that arrived in 1928, two years after his death. That one
was sent by a group of devoted Italian-Americans who also sent a check
to cover the cost of installing it. For one reason or another, the bust
was never displayed, and not much later both gifts mysteriously disappeared.
It would be nice to believe that one day, in some deserted shed or in
some dark corner of a basement, someone might unearth a bronze likeness
of the Sheik of Castellaneta. Probably a more realistic guess is that
it was melted down during one of Mussolini's wars.
Castellaneta
is in ceramic country. The nearby village of Grottaglie, has been the
ceramic capital of the area for 2000 years. So perhaps it is not surprising
that the statue of Valentino is fashioned in ceramic. As to its artistic
merit, you will have to decide for yourselves. Some may view it
as a genuine expression of local folk art; others may decide it is just
some ghastly, garish mistake. Certainly, it is unique!
Any adventurous
travellers who take the turnoff to Castellaneta, along the main highway
between Taranto and Metaponto, shouldn't fail to stop for a bit of refreshment
at the Bar Rudi once they arrive. Also, if they are truly
devoted pilgrims, and are of the right sex, they can even get a haircut
and a shave at the barber shop called, "Basette di Valentino" ("Whiskers
of Valentino"). However, the most moving tribute to the Sheik of Castellaneta
is to be found right up the street from the ceramic Figures. It is a
very graceful, pretty, decorated bronze plaque attached to the wall
of the modest house in which he was born. It was commissioned and erected
in loving memory by the Rudolph Valentino Fan Club of Cleveland, Ohio.
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