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CENTRAL
DECUMANUS/ VIA DEI TRIBUNALI
Three-stage walk:
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from Port'Alba to the Palace of the Emperor
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from Piazza San Gaetano to the Gerolamini
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from via Duomo to Castel Capuano
The
ancient decumanus medianus, also called maximus or
maior due to its central position in the layout of the Greco-Roman
city as well as for the presence of many important civic and, particularly,
religious buildings, became "via dei Tribunali" when don
Pedro de Toledo moved the five courthouses spread around the city
onto the premises of the Castel Capuano, where the street ends.
The walk along via dei Tribunali starts--for those coming from the
direction of Port'Alba--at piazza Bellini, near the arch of the
of old gate, itself, and the open-air cafes and buildings of via
Costantinopoli, where an excavated section of the ancient Greek
wall of the city from the 4th century b.c. gives an idea of the
urban layers that lie beneath. Following that, until the street
crosses via Duomo and ends at the tribunale (courthouse),
the walk passes through the Middle Ages, Renaissance and even by
underground passageways into by-gone centuries.
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1ST
STAGE
From Port'Alba to the Palace of the Emperor
Leaving
Port'Alba and piazza Bellini behind, the first part of the walk
is along that section of the decumanus named via San Pietro
a Majella for the presence of the ancient monastic complex and adjacent
church of the same name, built at the beginning of the 1300s and
now housing the ancient music conservatory, one of the most illustrious
in Italy and still the training ground for fine musicians. From
there to piazza Miraglia is but a few steps. There stands the church
of the Cross of Luke, once belonging to the Carmelite order; the
small truncated building is what is left of the large complex built
by Picchiatti in the 16th century. With a lovely in-lay ceiling,
the premises house Batistello Caracciolo's Madonna and Saints
as well as multi-coloured marble inlay by Pietro Barberiis (second
half of the 1600s).
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A short distance beyond that is the Pontano Chapel, built as
a family shrine in 1492 by poet/humanist Giovanni Pontano to a design
most likely of Giorgio Martini. The building is easily identifiable
from the three fluted pilasters, restored in 1759 by Charles of
Bourbon before his departure for Spain. Directly adjacent to the
chapel is the highly interesting church of Santa Maria Maggiore,
better known as the "Pietrasanta". It was built on the ruins of
an ancient Roman structure in the first half of the 6th century
at the behest of the bishop of the city of Pomonio. Legend has it
that the church was put up because of the need to free the area
of a demon that appeared daily in the form of a swine. That legend
is recalled by the presence of a bronze pig's head on the top of
this, the only architectural remnant of the middle ages in the city.
Another legend about the "Pietrasanta" tells of the presence of
a particular stone that brings favor to those who kiss it.
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At
the intersection of the decumanus and the north-south cardine
of via Nilo- via Atri, the walk passes the 15th-century Spinelli
di Laurino Palace where a plaque recalls the changes made in 1767
by the owner, duke Trojano; in contact with Ferdinando Sanfelice
and having done classical studies with the Jesuits in the seminary
located on via Nilo, he entrusted the architectural and decorative
work to Ferdinand Fuga. Besides the stucco and travertine stone
facade, the building is characterized by a splendid elliptical courtyard
punctuated by mock loggias and large oval stone reliefs of classical
scenes (they are the work of Nicola Massari and represent the birth
of Hercules, the forge of Vulcan, a sacrificial altar, the Chariot
of Spring, pastoral music in the presence of the gods, life out
of doors, rural labour, and Venus assisted by her handmaidens).
Along the upper section of the walls are also allegorical terracotta
figures from the workshop of Granatello on a design of Jacopo Cestaro
as well as a clock made of majolic tile crowning the grand double
staircase, wrought with the help of Sanfelice...
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On the other side of the street, immediately afterwards, is a somewhat
macabre structure--the entrance to the Church of Santa Maria of Souls
in Purgatory, named "ad Arco" (arch) from its proximity to
a medieval tower no longer standing and which gave that nomenclature
to the entire area. The church is also known as the church of "skulls"
from the presence of a series of bronze skulls embedded along the
external double staircase, which serve to recall the reason the church
was built in the 1600s--to serve the needs of a congregation dedicated
to the celebration of masses for souls in purgatory. It was a ritual
that went on for centuries, particularly in the crypt of the church
until that section was closed in the wake of the 1980 earthquake;
it was a ritual bordering on the pagan but one which continued in
spite of being officially frowned upon by church authorities. Within
the church, itself, one should not overlook--besides the rich marble
decorations--paintings by Luca Giordano, Massimo Stanzione and Andrea
Vaccaro. Crossing the street once again, we find the lively arched
portico of the d'Avalos del Vasto palace, a bustling marketplace of
foodstuffs and handicraft. The two sections of the structure are joined
by an Angevin vaulted portal that provided access to this, the residence
of Prince Taranto Phillip of Valois, son of king Charles II. (The
building is also known as the Emperor's Palace.) Within the courtyard
is an impressive layering of architecture from the high Middle Ages
and subsequent periods, including a marble family crest of drake and
fluer-de-lis. |
next
stage - II stage
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